Home Textiles Fabric & Fills 101

ALLIED presents a comprehensive guide to deepen your understanding of fills, fabrications, techniques, and treatments.

Fabric 101

Cotton

Color Variation
Spinning Method
Fiber Preparation
Characteristics
Ring Spun
Ring Spinning
Short Staple
Soft, smooth, durable, suitable for bed linens, towels, and home textiles
Open End Spun
Open End Spinning
Short Staple
Soft, smooth, durable, suitable for bed linens, towels, and home textiles
Carded
Carding
Short Staple
Medium softness, medium smoothness, moderate quality for home textiles
Combed
Open End Spinning
Short Staple
Less soft, less smooth, more economical, used for basic home textiles
Mercerized
N/A
Short or Long Staple
Lustrous, strong, smooth, enhanced color retention, ideal for home textiles
Long Staple
N/A
Long Staple
Soft, strong, luxurious, suitable for high-end home textiles
Virgin
N/A
N/A
Unprocessed, natural cotton fibers for home textiles
Recycled
N/A
N/A
Made from reclaimed cotton fibers, environmentally friendly for home textiles
Turkish/Aegean
Ring spinning
Short or Long Staple
Unprocessed, natural cotton fibers for home textilesSoft, absorbent, ideal for towels, bathrobes, and home textiles
Egyptian
Ring spinning
Extra-Long Staple
Exceptional softness, strength, and durability, ideal for luxury home textiles
Supima
Ring spinning
Short or Long Staple
Unprocessed, natural cotton fibers for home textilesSoft, absorbent, ideal for towels, bathrobes, and home textiles
Egyptian
N/A
N/A
Exceptional softness, strength, and durability, ideal for luxury home textilesGrown without pesticides or synthetic fertilizers, environmentally friendly for home textiles
BCI
Ring spinning
Short or Long Staple
Grown under the standards of Better Cotton Initiative, focused on sustainability for home textiles

Polyester

Polyester Variation
Fiber Production Method
Fiber Length
Characteristics
Extruded
Extrusion Process
Continuous
Continuous filament, smooth, lustrous, used for durable applications such as upholstery and industrial textiles
Denier
Extrusion Process
Continuous
Denier is a unit of measurement for fiber fineness, lower denier indicates finer fibers, used for various textile applications depending on denier range
Staple (Spun)
Spinning Process
Short Staple
Short cut fibers spun into yarns, soft, lightweight, breathable, used for a wide range of textile applicationsZ
Recycled
Reprocessed Waste
Varies
Made from post-consumer or post-industrial waste, eco-friendly, used for sustainable textile applications
Virgin
Virgin Polymer
Continuous or Staple
Made from new, unused polymer, versatile for different textile applications, higher quality compared to recycled polyester

Synthetic Finish

Synthetic Finish Variation
Material Composition
Characteristics
Application
Nylon
Polyamide
ContinuousStrong, durable, abrasion-resistant, excellent tensile strength, moisture-resistant, low coefficient of friction, flexible
Apparel (outerwear, activewear), bags and luggage, footwear, upholstery, industrial applications
TPU
Thermoplastic
Polyurethane
Soft, flexible, transparent, excellent abrasion resistance, high tensile strength, moisture-resistant, resistant to oils and chemicals
Footwear, sportswear, medical devices, electronics, automotive parts, inflatable products, waterproofing applications

Botanicals

Natural Fiber
Material Source
Characteristics
Application
Bamboo/Rayon
Bamboo Plant
Soft, smooth, breathable, moisture-wicking, biodegradable, sustainable, requires chemical processing to produce rayon
Apparel (clothing, underwear, socks), bed linens, towels, home textiles, non-woven fabrics
Tencel/Lyocell
Wood Pulp From
Eucalyptus Trees
Soft, smooth, moisture-wicking, eco-friendly, biodegradable, sustainable, produced using a closed-loop process with minimal environmental impact
Apparel (clothing, activewear, lingerie), bed linens, towels, home textiles, non-woven fabrics, automotive interiors
Modal
Wood Pulp From Beech Trees
Soft, smooth, breathable, moisture-wicking, eco-friendly,  biodegradable, sustainable, requires chemical processing to produce modal
Apparel (clothing, underwear, sleepwear), bed linens, towels, home textiles, non-woven fabrics
Hemp
Hemp Plant
Strong, durable, breathable, moisture-wicking, eco-friendly, biodegradable, sustainable, requires minimal chemical  processing
Apparel (clothing, bags), home textiles, upholstery, industrial applications
Linen
Flax plant
Strong, durable, breathable, moisture-absorbing,  biodegradable, sustainable, requires minimal chemical processing
Apparel (clothing, bed linens, towels), home textiles, upholstery, table linens

Construction 101

Fabric Construction Technique

Construction
Characteristics
Advantages
Disadvantages
Disadvantages
Woven
Interlocking yarns in a crisscross pattern, creating a durable and stable fabric
Strong, crisp, and breathable, wide range of designs and patterns
May wrinkle easily, may not stretch or drape as well as knit fabrics
Bed sheets, duvet covers, pillowcases, tablecloths
Knit
Interlooping yarns, creating a stretchy and flexible fabric
Soft, comfortable, and stretchy, excellent drape and fit
Less durable than woven fabrics, may be prone to pilling
Jersey sheets, jersey knit fabrics for fitted sheets, stretchy bed linens
Matelassé
Double cloth construction with a raised design or pattern created by additional yarns or padding
Textured and plush surface, adds depth and dimension to the fabric
May be heavier and bulkier, may require special care in laundering
Decorative bed linens, coverlets, pillow shams
Dobby
Additional dobby weave patterns added to the base construction for decorative or functional purposes
Versatile, adds design elements, can create textured patterns
May add complexity to the manufacturing process, may affect drape or stretch
Decorative bed linens, duvet covers, pillowcases
Jacquard
Elaborate and intricate designs woven into the fabric using a jacquard loom
Complex and detailed patterns, high-end and luxurious look
Higher cost, may require special care, slower production time
Luxury bed linens, decorative fabrics, high-end home textiles
Emboss/ Deboss
Patterns or designs created by pressing or embossing the fabric with heat or pressure
Textured and raised or depressed patterns, adds visual interest
Limited to specific designs or patterns, may affect fabric handfeel
Decorative bed linens, upholstery fabrics, home textiles
Common Thread
Refers to the number of threads per square inch in a fabric, higher thread counts generally indicate a denser and softer fabric
Soft, smooth, and luxurious feel, tightly woven for durability
Higher thread counts may be more expensive, may affect breathability
Luxury bed linens, high-end home textiles
Single Pick
Refers to the number of weft or filling yarns used in a single row of woven fabric
Lower cost, faster production time, lighter weight
Lower density compared to double pick, may affect fabric strength
Basic bed linens, budget-friendly fabrics
Double Pick
Refers to the number of weft or filling yarns used in multiple rows of woven fabric
Higher density, thicker and more substantial fabric
Higher cost, slower production time, heavier weight
Luxury bed linens, heavy-duty fabrics, high-end home textiles
Sateen Weave
Smooth and lustrous fabric with a soft and silky handfeel, created using a satin weave with more warp yarns on the surface
Luxurious and silky feel, subtle sheen, drapes well
May be less durable than other weaves, may be prone to snags or pilling
Luxury bed linens, high-end home textiles
Percale Weave
Crisp and lightweight fabric with a matte finish, created using a simple over-and-under weave
Crisp and breathable, durable and long-lasting
Less soft and smooth compared to sateen, may wrinkle easily
Basic bed linens, lightweight fabrics, warm weather bedding

Terry Construction Technique

Construction
Characteristics
Advantages
Disadvantages
Applications
Base
Simple, basic terry construction with loops on one side and a flat base on the other
Cost-effective, lightweight, dries quickly, suitable for basic applications
Less absorbent, lower pile height, less plush compared to other techniques
Basic towels, bathrobes, basic home textiles
Loop
Loops on both sides, creating a dense and plush texture
High absorbency, soft and plush feel, excellent water retention
Heavier weight, slower drying time, may require more care in laundering
High-quality bath towels, bath mats, spa robes
Dobby
Additional dobby weave patterns added to the base construction for decorative or functional purposes
Versatile, adds design elements, can create textured patterns
May add complexity to the manufacturing process, may affect absorbency
Decorative towels, bathrobes, beach towels, home textiles
Jacquard
Elaborate and intricate designs woven into the fabric using a jacquard loom
Complex and detailed patterns, high-end and luxurious look
Higher cost, may require special care, slower production time
Luxury bath towels, decorative towels, high-end home textiles
Single Ply
Single layer of yarns used in the construction, resulting in a thinner and lighter fabric
Lightweight, quick-drying, suitable for warm weather or travel use
Less plush and absorbent compared to other techniques
Beach towels, lightweight bath towels, travel towels
Double Ply
Two layers of yarns used in the construction, resulting in a thicker and more plush fabric
Thick and plush texture, high absorbency, luxurious feel
Heavier weight, longer drying time, may require more care in laundering
Luxury bath towels, spa robes, high-end home textiles
Zero Twist
Loops made from untwisted yarns, creating a lofty and soft texture
Super soft and plush feel, high absorbency, quick drying
Less durable, may require special care, less common in the market
Luxury bath towels, baby towels, premium home textiles
Low Twist
Loops made from lightly twisted yarns, creating a balance between softness and durability
Soft and absorbent, durable, retains shape well
May not be as plush as other techniques, moderate drying time
Bath towels, hand towels, home textiles
Sculpted
Loops in varying heights or cut pile yarns used to create raised patterns or designs
Adds texture and depth to the fabric, unique and decorative
More complex manufacturing process, may affect absorbency
Decorative towels, bathrobes, high-end home textiles

Fills 101

Filling Type

Filling Type
Material
Characteristics
Advantages
Disadvantages
Applications
Duck Down
Down feathers from ducks
Soft, lightweight, excellent insulation
High warmth-to-weight ratio, luxurious feel
May be less expensive than goose down, smaller clusters
High-quality comforters, pillows
Goose Down
Down feathers from geese
Soft, lightweight, excellent insulation
Highest warmth-to-weight ratio, luxurious feel
May be more expensive than duck down, larger clusters
High-end comforters, pillows
Duck Feather
Feathers from ducks
Heavier, less soft than down
Good insulation, more affordable than down
May not be as soft, less lofty
Basic comforters, pillows
Goose Feather
Feathers from geese
Heavier, less soft than down
Good insulation, more affordable than goose down
May not be as soft, less lofty
Basic comforters, pillows
Down Alternative
Synthetic materials designed to mimic down
Soft, hypoallergenic
Hypoallergenic, more affordable
May not have the same warmth-to-weight ratio as down, may be less breathable
Allergy-friendly bedding, budget-friendly options
Fiber Fill
Synthetic materials such as polyester
Soft, lightweight, affordable
Affordable, hypoallergenic, easy to clean
May not have the same insulation as down, may flatten over time
Budget-friendly comforters, pillows
Garnet Fill
Polyester fibers that are garnetted (mechanically carded and bonded)
Resilient, good loft, affordable
Affordable, retains loft, hypoallergenic
May feel less soft than down, may be heavier
Budget-friendly comforters, pillows
Sculpted Foam
Foam materials shaped into specific patterns
Contoured, supportive, ergonomic
Provides targeted support, promotes proper alignment
May not have the same softness as down, may retain heat
Orthopedic bedding, specialty pillows
Shredded Foam
Foam materials shredded into smaller pieces
Moldable, customizable, supportive
Provides adjustable support, can be shaped to preference
May not have the same loft as down, may require regular fluffing
Adjustable pillows, body pillows
Natural Latex
Natural latex derived from rubber trees
Resilient, hypoallergenic, eco-friendly
Durable, hypoallergenic, resistant to dust mites
May be more expensive than synthetic fillings, may have a distinct odor
Eco-friendly bedding, latex pillows
Synthetic Latex
Synthetic materials designed to mimic latex
Resilient, hypoallergenic, affordable
Affordable, hypoallergenic, easy to clean
May not have the same durability as natural latex, may have a different feel
Budget-friendly latex pillows, hypoallergenic bedding

Techniques 101

Fabric Technique

Surface
Description
Characteristics
Advantages
Disadvantages
Applications
Print
Design or pattern printed onto the fabric surface
Can be intricate or simple, various colors and designs
Cost-effective, versatile, wide design options
May fade over time, may have limitations in design complexity
Bedding, curtains, upholstery
Woven
Pattern or design created through weaving different threads
Textured, durable, three-dimensional look
Long-lasting, adds depth and dimension to fabric
Limited to simple designs, may be more expensive
Bedding, upholstery, rugs, decorative pillows
Baratta
Decorative stitching or embroidery done with thread on the fabric surface
Raised, tactile, adds visual interest, high level of coverage
Luxurious, elegant, adds a handcrafted touch
Requires skilled craftsmanship, may be more expensive
Bedding, pillows, table linens
Embroidery
Decorative stitching or designs created with thread on the fabric surface
Intricate, detailed, adds texture and dimension
Adds a high-end look, versatile in design options
May require special care, can be time-consuming and costly
Bedding, table linens, decorative pillows
Quilt
Layers of fabric stitched together with padding in between
Padded, textured, provides warmth and comfort
Provides insulation, adds a cozy look and feel
May be heavy, limited design options
Quilts, bedding, throws
Piping
Fabric-covered cord or tape inserted into seams or edges of fabric
Adds structure, defines edges, adds a decorative touch
Provides a finished look, enhances durability
Limited to edges, may require extra sewing steps
Budget-upholstery, pillows, cushions, comforters

Fabric Treatments 101

Fabric Treatments

Treatment
Description
Characteristics
Advantages
Disadvantages
Applications
Xylitol
Xylitol absorbs heat when it comes into contact with moisture, which activates the cooling effect.
Can be applied to yarn or printed on fabric.
Cost-effective, versatile.
Does not feel cool to the touch until it comes in contact with moisture.
Bedding.
PCM
Substance which undergoes phase transition to provide cooling. Generally, the transition will be from solid to liquid and back.
Usually sprayed on foam.
Intensely cool to the touch.
Chemical—warms once phase change is complete.
Bedding.
Silver
Silver treatment can be applied to fabric to inhibit the growth of bacteria, fungi, and viruses.
Topical treatment—sprayed or nanoencapsulated.
Cost-effective—reduces the amount of washing fabrics require.
Concerns that silver leaks into the water supply and skin.
Bedding.
Non-ionic Silver
Silver treatment can be applied to fabric to inhibit the growth of bacteria, fungi, and viruses.
Can be permanently adhered to fabric.
Safer than traditional silver because it does not leach into skin or water supply.
Customers need to be educated on the difference between ionic and non-ionic silvers.
Bedding.
Wicking
Moves moisture away from the body to keep fabric dry, thereby helping regulate body temperature.
Can be applied to all types of fabric or may simply be an inherent benefit of certain fabric constructions like microfiber.
Inexpensive and easily applied to all types of fabric.
Varying levels of effectiveness.
Bedding.
Stain Release
Treatment that helps fabrics release stains more easily during laundering. It works by drawing water, detergent, and surfactant through the fabric during the wash cycle to remove stains.
Can be applied to most fabrics but works best on cotton and cotton blends.
Inexpensive—great benefit for consumers.
Eventually washes out—not as effective on synthetic products.
Bedding.
Wrinkle Resist
A chemical resin is applied to the fabric’s surface or crosslinked at the molecular level to help reduce creasing.
Can be applied to most fabrics.
Avoids the need for ironing.
Eventually washes out.
Bedding.
Expedry
Gold nano-particles are applied to down clusters.
Non-ionic—attached to down clusters.
2X dry time. Won’t wash out. Natural treatment.
Can be expensive.
All down bedding.
Copper
Copper is added to yarn for antimicrobial and beauty benefits.
Can be added to the core of the yarn or woven with the yarn.
Natural antimicrobial properties. May help decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Research on beauty benefits is limited. Depending on the application, copper can affect hand feel. Difficult to achieve true white.
Pillows, comforters, sheeting.
Beneficial Bedding
Fabrics and fills are infused with beauty standards like aloe, vitamin E, or even CBD.
Infusions do not change the hand of the product—usually applied to yarn or nanoencapsulated and printed on fabric.
May provide beauty or relaxation benefits.
Research on effectiveness is limited. May wash out. Specific to CBD, labeling requirements can vary greatly by state.
Pillows.
Aromatherapy
Essential oils are added to foam during the pouring process or nanoencapsulated and printed on fabric.
Adds a pleasant smell—usually associated with sleep or relaxation like lavender or coconut.
Covers the sometimes overpowering odor of foam—uses natural essential oils.
Scent may be limiting or fade over time.
Pillows.

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